Recipe

Pain a l' Ancienne

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Pain a l' Ancienne

Photo by thirschfeld

  • This recipe was entered in the contest for Your Best (Savory) Yeast Bread
  • A&M's Testing Notes: The dough was fantastic to work with -- simple to knead and gather, both by hand and with the stand mixer/dough hook. (I made the recipe twice. I added 1 more teaspoon of salt on the second...

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  • Chef

    thirschfeld's Notes: I have baked bread for the family every Sunday and Wednesday now for almost ten years. I really enjoy bread and I have so many favorites it is hard to choose just one. I have begged, borrowed...

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Serves Four 12 inch baguettes

  1. I fill an eight cup measure half with ice and the rest with cold water. Then I pour off the cold water in the measurements called for.

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  2. In the bowl of a mixer place 1/4 cup of ice water and sprinkle the yeast over the top. Let the yeast dissolve.

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  3. Add the remainding 2 1/4 cups of the ice water, the flour, wheat germ and salt. Mix with a dough hook. As the dough comes together add the olive oil. The dough probably won't even gather around hook but should pull around it. If it seems to loose error on the side of a stiff dough and add more flour in 1/4 cup increments. You should see gluten development.

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  4. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the fridge for 24 to 36 hours.

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  5. Place a baking stone on the middle rack of the oven. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Place a cast iron skillet in the bottom of the oven. Keep it close to the edge you will be pouring water into it.

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  6. Remove the dough from the fridge. Sprinkle the counter with a good cup and a half of flour into about a 12 by 12 inch square.

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  7. Flour your hands and dump the dough gently onto the flour. Spread it out to be about 8 inches by 8 inches. Dust the top of the dough with a good coating of flour and then spray it with spray oil and cover with plastic wrap. Set a timer for 1 hour and 30 minutes.

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  8. After the timer sounds, gently remove the plastic wrap. If some of the dough is stuck to it pinch it and gently pull.

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  9. Place a piece of parchment onto a peel (or sheet tray if you are not using a stone). Sprinkle it with cornmeal.

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  10. If your oven or stone isn't big enough only cut what will fit on your stone or in the oven and leave the remainder of the dough whole and covered until needed. Using a dough cutter dipped in water cut the dough into four pieces. Place the peel right next to the dough.

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  11. Now the tricky part. You want to do this quickly. Put one hand at each end of the loaf. Lift, the middle will start to stretch and drop, quickly move to the peel and stretch back to 12 inches. Repeat with what will fit on your peel or fit in your oven. I do two loaves at a time.

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  12. Slide the dough onto the stone. Carefully, but quickly, pour a half cup of water into the skillet and shut the door. Turn the heat down to 450 and set a timer for 12 minutes. Do not open the door.

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  13. When the timer goes off rotate the bread 180 degrees and bake and additional 4 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool.

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Reply

This looked so very interesting! I want to make this, but I am big into whole grains and whole wheat. Any idea how to incorporate some w/w flour into this? perhaps 1/2 w/w half bread flour?

Dscn0826 Reply

I, over time, have started to make all my bread 75% or more whole wheat. I have not made this with that percentage though. What I have been doing And I think it would work just fine here is to add a tablespoon of vital wheat gluten per cup of whole wheat flour. It seems to add enough elasticity to the dough to give it the spring you want for the crumb and air bubbles.

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I made this bread with dry active yeast, like it says above, and it did not rise! My loaves looked like sad tree branches. What did I do wrong?

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I'm a fairly experienced bread baker, but this bread didn't rise at all for me. I baked 2 loaves, thinking I'd get some oven spring, but no. What did I do wrong? I'm letting the other 2 loaves proof some more. We'll see.

Dscn0826 Reply

Kathy, I have had that happen once before and it was because I didn't let it warm up enough and rise a little bit before I baked it. Which it sounds like you are letting the other loaves warm and proof a bit more. I hope this takes care of it for you and the remaining two loaves get a good crumb.

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This look delicious!! Can't wait to try it. There is nothing like homemade bread!!

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I made this and we had it fir supper - I felt like a pro. It looked beautiful, smelled fabulous and had a rich flavor and just the right tender chewy texture of old style breads. Thanks for a great recipe and instructions.

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We bake often, most times using a many year old sourdough starter but also making other breads. Two comments. We use a Hearthstone insert in our oven rather than a stone. All the difference in the world. Your oven essentially becomes a full brick oven. The temperature remains very stable and the crusts you get are outstanding. We have two ovens and leave the insert in most of the time. It removes and replaces in about a minute. I don't know if the company still makes them, but you can find them on eBay. We have a wood fired oven outside the the results are comparable. Second, we put a pan with very hot water in the bottom as the oven warms. Enough so it won't all evaporate in the process. Moisture is created as the oven comes to temp and you get a very moist oven without the complexity of trying to pour into a hot oven.

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Might I suggest dropping a few ice cubes in that hot cast iron pan on the bottom shelf of the oven? I am a klutz when it comes opening the oven door, pulling out the pan, carefully and quickly adding water, and not burning my forearm. Cubes I can manage!

Logo Reply

That is such a good idea!

Nog Reply

I want to eat my computer screen right now. Seriously.

Nog Reply

Actually, I want to slather my computer screen with butter and salt and then eat it.

Img_2764 Reply

I'm looking forward to trying this. Probably this weekend. Peter Reinhart was my breads instructor in school. The loaves are gorgeous, and I'm looking forward to seeing the crumb.

Photo_245 Reply

Excellent Loaves thirschfeld! They were perfect with my pork chops and my husband thinks I'm a bad a$$. I was nervous at first because they didn't really rise when I set them out for 2 hours but as soon as I tossed them into the oven they puffed up beautifully. I can't wait to make the other 2 loaves tomorrow night with cookinginvictoria's sunday pork ragu. Thank you.

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P.S. It seemed strange to me to preheat the oven to 500 an hour and a half in advance, so I waited until the dough was done rising under the plastic. Any reason to do otherwise?

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I'm so glad I finally got around to making this bread. The number of instructions made it seem more complicated than it was. I used whey instead of water, which worked great. My loaves came out a bit flatter than those pictured, but they were still delicious. Great crumb, very light, and almost springy. Strangely, they had a bit of an English muffin flavor. Is that normal?

Ry_400 Reply

Hi thirschfeld - This breads looks lovely and I can't wait to try it. If I don't want to make all four loaves at once, can I freeze the dough or is it best to make all 4 loaves and then freeze the leftover loaves? Thank you!

Dscn0826 Reply

I hadn't thought about it but I would freeze the dough. I always think bread is best out of the oven. I really think you have a good idea so let's know how it freezes.

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I made this, using my stand mixer/dough hooks and it was wonderful. I scaled down the recipe to 2/3, used 1/4 cup of blue cornmeal as I had no wheat germ, and used the refrigerator pitcher of water . It's got a really nice texture and taste. I'm making another batch right now with toasted corn bran instead of wheat germ.

Kk2 Reply

Your photography is as good as your cooking!

Dscn0826 Reply

thank you kaykay I really appreciate that. thank you, again.

Landing Reply

This looks great! I recently began baking bread, starting with Jim Lahey's No-Knead and Richard Bertinet's sweet dough... if you have any other recipe's that you feel like sharing, love to hear them!

Food52_photo Reply

I do not have a stand mixer, so I mixed it by hand and it was pretty dang easy. It is in my fridge now and I can't wait to bake it today. It was very stiff, however. I hope I didn't do something wrong.

Dscn0826 Reply

If it was stiff before going into the fridge you may have a problem but it will stiffen in the fridge from being cold. It will loosen quit a bit while coming to temperature.

New_years_kitchen_hlc_only Reply

How did it turn out, by the way? I don't have a stand mixer either, and plan to make this tomorrow or the next day . . . . Thanks! ;o)

Dscn0826 Reply

AntoniaJames I will be around tomorrow dealing with baby ducks, goslings and turkeys so if you have any questions I am available.

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Mmm, these look beautiful!

Food52_photo Reply

Beautiful. I'm making this.

Dscn0826 Reply

I have seen people make bread with a food processor fitted with a plastic blade (pain to clean I would think) but if I did not have a stand mixer, I would get a large mixing bowl and a wood spoon. This is a very loose dough so I think mixing by hand would be a great way to go.

New_years_kitchen_hlc_only Reply

Very interesting, and very clear instructions. I am about thirty years behind on food trends, so I've only recently seen books and articles claiming to crack the mystery of "artisan" breads. I think I'll try this one. Tell me this, though .. . . if you did not have a stand-up mixer/dough hook system (as I do not, and do not foresee procuring one, due to the miniscule size of my ancient "maid's kitchen," and low clearance of the upper cabinets), what would you do instead? Thank you. ;o)

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