Recipe

Dirty Rotten Roman Risotto

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This recipe was entered in the contest for Your Best Risotto (Savory)
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pierino's Notes: Mostly when you consider real Italian risotto you think of the Padana; the rice growing region of the Po river valley, Emilia-Romagna and the Veneto. This recipe however, is true to Rome...
Mostly when you consider real Italian risotto you think of the Padana; the rice growing region of the Po river valley, Emilia-Romagna and the Veneto. This recipe however, is true to Rome (my Rome), but for some reason at the same time, it reminds me of the “dirty rice” of New Orleans. Not dissimilar. Much of the inspiration comes from the “cucina ebraica” of Rome. That would be from the Jews who had to flee the Spanish Inquisition in Sicily and landed on both sides of the Tiber. They used all of the parts of the chicken including the “rigaglie”, the giblets, and everything else you can think of. This would be straight out Roman Jewish food except that I’ve added pork and unkoshered it. Sorry rabbi, but I do still respect that history, really. Okay, not kosher but you can make it so very easily if you prefer with the omission of the guanciale. Hint: you don’t need to go overboard on mire poix, let the guts sing for they own selves as they would in New Orleans.

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Serves 4

1/4 pound chicken gizzards Ask a question about this ingredient

1/4 pound chicken hearts Ask a question about this ingredient

1/4 pound chicken livers (to be cooked separately) Ask a question about this ingredient

1/4 cup guanciale or pancetta, chopped Ask a question about this ingredient

1 rib celery plus leaves , chopped (set the leaves aside) Ask a question about this ingredient

1/2 cup tomato puree (if I were in Roma I would use passata, which is looser than American puree but you can thin it with a little wine if you like) Ask a question about this ingredient

1 teaspoon fresh thyme Ask a question about this ingredient

1/2 cup chopped red onion or shallot Ask a question about this ingredient

1 clove garlic, minced Ask a question about this ingredient

1/4 cup white wine Ask a question about this ingredient

1 1/2 cup Arborio or carnaroli rice Ask a question about this ingredient

5 cups good chicken stock Ask a question about this ingredient

extra virgin olive oil Ask a question about this ingredient

about 2 ounces butte Ask a question about this ingredient

salt and pepper Ask a question about this ingredient

Chop the giblets but hold the livers separately. Ditto for the guanciale/pancetta
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In a sauté pan heat up olive oil to a shimmer not a smoke. Begin by adding the chopped guanciale and let the fat melt a bit. Add the giblets but not the livers (we’re holding those back). Brown these on a medium low flame while you begin the rice. Season with salt and pepper and toss in the fresh thyme. Add the chopped celery. Wait a minute or two and add the tomato puree and keep that bubbling.
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Bring the stock to a steady simmer (not a boil) on a burner close to the one on which you will be cooking your risotto.
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Heat up the oil in a large pan, one that will contain the risotto. Add the chopped onions and allow those to color but not brown. Stir in the rice and stir until it begins to become translucent. Add the wine and reduce down. At this point begin ladling in the stock, stirring with each ladleful.
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As the rice absorbs the liquids continue to add more stock, ladle by ladle. After about 8 or 10 minutes add the giblets and sauce and continue the process.
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Meanwhile in a separate pan melt some butter. This will all make sense in the end. Color the garlic and sauté the chopped livers. Before the rice reaches the perfect al dente point add livers to it and stir. From here on it’s just taste and season. You add the chicken liver at the end because it’s the most delicate component.
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The risotto should still be wet and as they say in Venice, “al onda” meaning “ a wave”, not a clump of sticky rice. That’s another show. Garnish with the chopped celery leaves you have reserved.
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Note to cooks: in Rome you may see big hunks of celery in plates as opposed to dainty little slices. Make up your own mind. You don’t have to be a food stylist.
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2 Comments on Dirty Rotten Roman Risotto

pierino added over 2 years ago

Perche, that would be "double not parve". So no crawfishy tails either. But if you want to use pecorino cheese to finish that's fine. I'm not observant so even though Passover is upon us, I'll look the other way. Ask yourself why is this Irish Catholic boy messing around with Jewish dishes. Answer, because it's fun. Pierino predicts that the next food wave, zeitgeist is going to be Korea.