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Old School French Onion Soup Gratinée

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This recipe was entered in the contest for Your Best Onion or Garlic Soup
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pierino's Notes: Onion soup is one of the most satisfying winter meals I can think of. It reminds of dark restaurants with the leatherette banquettes that you used to sit on as a kid. No fancy riffs here...
Onion soup is one of the most satisfying winter meals I can think of. It reminds of dark restaurants with the leatherette banquettes that you used to sit on as a kid. No fancy riffs here. This is as authentic as you can get. The most important ingredients are the stock and the onions (obviously). If you screw up either one it will fail. I was drilled in this method by my francophone masters in Scottsdale, Arizona. Could I just say right now that I hate Arizona. The choice of stock is up to you. My personal preference is for veal stock. But the standard preparations also include chicken stock, beef stock or a combination of two. Make the stock one day ahead [recipe to follow] Chill it in the refrigerator and do a final skim of the fat cap that has formed.

The next key step involves caramelizing the onions. Don’t rush this. It’s going to take at least 40 minutes to have them just right. I can’t emphasize that enough. After that it’s easy. You’ve probably seen this soup served with a big slab of Swiss cheese melting on top. You can do it that way, but don’t invite me over. Also this dish breaks a number of rules in the kasruth so don’t ignorantly serve it to your observant Jewish friends. I’m not saying this to be politically correct but rather because I think it’s important to understand that the food values (as well as allergies etc.) that your guests bring to the table are as important as you being master of the kitchen. Food should be nourishing and not a threat to either your faith or your mortal coil. As much as I would like to run over every vegan non-meatatarian with my car, I probably won’t be doing that soon. Okay, I promise.

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Serves 4

The stock:

2 pounds veal bones Ask a question about this ingredient

2 carrots, cut in large pieces Ask a question about this ingredient

1 white onion, cut in biggish pieces Ask a question about this ingredient

1 skinny leek Ask a question about this ingredient

1 bay leaf Ask a question about this ingredient

1 handful fresh thyme on the branch Ask a question about this ingredient

large sprig parsley Ask a question about this ingredient

water to cover Ask a question about this ingredient

salt and pepper Ask a question about this ingredient

For the soup:

2 quarts veal stock (or your preference), which you made the day before Ask a question about this ingredient

1 1/2 ½ pounds sweet onions (Vidalia, Maui etc.) sliced as thin as you can get them sliced Ask a question about this ingredient

Butter Ask a question about this ingredient

Olive oil Ask a question about this ingredient

1 or 2 shot good cognac Ask a question about this ingredient

Salt and pepper to adjust flavor Ask a question about this ingredient

1 cup best gruyere you can find; grate it Ask a question about this ingredient

Slices of crusty, day old baguette, cut to fit individual bowls (possibly bias cut) Ask a question about this ingredient

Make the stock lovingly by browning the bones, carrot and onion in a roasting pan in a hot oven. If you like, paint them with some tomato paste.
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When the bones etc. are nicely colored transfer all to a stock pot and cover with water.
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Make a bouquet garnie by splitting the leak lengthwise, and cut off most of the top. With kitchen twine bind the herbs between the leak sections. Add to the stock components. Season.
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Bring everything slowly to a simmer, skimming foam as needed. DO NOT BOIL or your stock will be cloudy.
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Simmer the stock for 6 to 8 hours. Finally, line a chinois with cheesecloth and strain. Discard the bones and bouquet and stuff. If you are obsessive like me, take another piece of cheesecloth and strain a second time.
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Refrigerate overnight. In the morning skim the fat cap off of what should be a nice looking gelatin.
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Now make the soup
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In the heavy pot in which you intend to finish your perfecto onion soup, melt some good butter over medium low heat. Add about 1 tbs olive oil. Add the onions and increase the heat slowly. You are going to have to stand over this and stir for awhile. Get used to it. You want to slowly sweat these down to develop a brown sugary color but not scorched. Take your time, the World can wait. Allow at least 40 minutes.
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Meanwhile heat your stock. When you are happy with your onions add the hot stock and the cognac to that big pot. Bring to a simmer and taste for seasoning. Continue to simmer.
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Now grate the best Gruyere cheese you can find. Top the bread slices with the cheese over. Ladle your perfection onion soup into individual bowls and top each with a crouton of bread. At this point you can stick the bowls under a broiler (I doubt that your kitchen comes with a restaurant salamander---if it does, you rock!) or just torch the cheese with a mini-torchy thing. I have one. Welcome to Purgatory. Your cheese is melted, your soup sings to heaven, you are ready!
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5 Comments on Old School French Onion Soup Gratinée

Guzmadon added about 1 year ago

After making this for my wife this weekend, I'm confused. Why hasn't the comment section for this soup blown up! The simplicity of this dish cannot be overstated. The way the stock and onions are brought together by the deglazing done with the cognac is the payoff for all the patience needed to execute and enjoy this once peasant soup. Made the croutons with melted gruyere separate from the soup and floated on top at presentation. Wife is a huge fan of French Onion Soup and ranks this among the best. Thank you for sharing this recipe.

pierino added about 1 year ago

And thank you for your comment. I may submit it again if the right theme presents itself; maybe "your best soup with crouton". But I like doing things the old way.

lastnightsdinner added over 2 years ago

I use veal stock when we have it, a 2:1 ratio of beef stock to chicken when we don't, and other than that, this is almost identical to my tried-and-true onion soup :)

pierino added over 2 years ago

The quality of the stock is vital. I'm not borrowing any ideas, I'm just doing it the old way. In Paris though, there are places that will use chicken stock. But you still have to make it yourself with all the attention to detail. Thanks.