Recipe

Asparagus with Pancetta

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by amanda

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by Sarah Shatz

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amanda's Notes: Sometimes when I learn something new in the kitchen I feel embarrassed that I hadn't figured it out sooner. Cooking asparagus was that way. Sure, I knew how to high-heat roast it, and I loved...
Sometimes when I learn something new in the kitchen I feel embarrassed that I hadn't figured it out sooner. Cooking asparagus was that way. Sure, I knew how to high-heat roast it, and I loved that technique. But when I wasn't roasting asparagus, I'd slide back to blanching the spears. Then, while working on a story a few years ago, Carlo Mirarchi, the chef at Roberta's, showed me the right way. As he noted, blanching does little but drain asparagus's flavor, and they're no longer so tough that they need blanching anyway. A much better method is to saute them in oil or butter (or some combination thereof). They cook through quickly and retain all their flavor.

That's what I do now. And so should you (when you're not roasting them). To celebrate my asparagus enlightenment, I'd like to share with you two recipes that involve sauteing and not much other work. One calls for pancetta, the other for chiles and lemon -- all of my most reliable friends in the kitchen.

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Serves 3 to 4 (add a poached egg and it serves 2 for dinner)

One 1/4-inch-thick slice pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch cubes Ask a question about this ingredient

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more if needed Ask a question about this ingredient

1/3 cup coarse bread crumbs Ask a question about this ingredient

1 pound asparagus, ends trimmed Ask a question about this ingredient

Coarse sea salt Ask a question about this ingredient

Maldon or other flaky sea salt, for garnish Ask a question about this ingredient

Coarsely ground black pepper Ask a question about this ingredient

Spread the pancetta in a large, heavy saute pan and place over medium heat. Cook the pancetta until it has browned and rendered its fat. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towel.
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Keep the pan over medium heat and add the breadcrumbs. Stir to coat the breadcrumbs in the pancetta fat (add oil, if needed), and cook, stirring, until the bread it toasted. Transfer to a plate. Wash out the saute pan if the breadcrumbs have stuck. Otherwise, keep going.
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Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to the pan, and increase the heat to medium-high. Add the asparagus spears, season with salt, and saute. They will brighten in color. Saute until just cooked through, but still crisp-tender at the center, 3 to 5 minutes.
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Arrange the asparagus on a platter. Sprinkle the pancetta and breadcrumbs on top. Season with a little Maldon, or other flaky sea salt, and pepper.
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2 Comments on Asparagus with Pancetta

eggdoc added about 1 year ago

This recipe falls in the category of "How can that be any good--it's so easy!" Trust me, it is both! We love (and grow) asparagus, and have tried dozens of ways to serve it, but this is hands down the most delicious. The pancetta adds just a light touch of saltiness and the bread crumbs (I used whole wheat panko because that's what I had) add the pancetta-toasty crispiness that really makes the dish. My only other comment is to ALWAYS peel the asparagus, no matter if pencil thin. Thanks so much--who knew life could be this simple?