Genius Recipes

2 Creamy, Tangy Dips Straight From Hawaii (& Your Pantry)

Sheldon Simeon's pupus will save any snacking situation, starting with the Super Bowl.

February  2, 2022

Every week in Genius Recipes—often with your help!—Food52 Founding Editor and lifelong Genius-hunter Kristen Miglore is unearthing recipes that will change the way you cook.


In chef Sheldon Simeon’s childhood home in Hilo, Hawai‘i, no snacking situation was ever more than a couple ingredients and a few stirs away.

“It feels like a quick-fire moment,” Sheldon told me of the quick pupus his family is always ready to rustle up. “When we open up the fridge and just make food happen.”

Shoyu, or soy sauce, and mayonnaise could instantly become a dip, salad dressing, or sandwich spread. (These days, Sheldon buys both ingredients in Costco-sized tubs.) And kim chee—as kimchi was romanized in Hawai‘i, pre-dating the common spelling on the mainland—was always in the fridge, to be mixed with cream cheese and sour cream. “If we didn’t have that, our old friend mayonnaise was there,” Sheldon said.

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Top Comment:
“cream cheese, at room temperature 1 ripe avocado 1/2 medium tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped 1/2 green onion, minced Garlic powder to taste Salt and pepper to taste Juice of half a lemon With a hand mixer, blend cream cheese and avocado until smooth. Stir in tomato and green onion. Season to taste with garlic powder, salt and pepper. Stir in lemon juice. A Japanese friend gave us different and delicious dip recipe. We also serve it over roasted veggies, like carrots, broccoli, or mushrooms. SESAME MISO DIP 4 Tbsp. Miracle Whip (NOT mayo) 4 Tbsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. white miso 2 tsp. grated fresh ginger 1 tsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. creamy peanut butter 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds Mix all ingredients together by hand with a whisk until smooth. Adjust soy sauce and peanut butter to taste. Serve with crudites, especially jicama, bell peppers, sugar snap peas.”
— Charlene V.
Comment

In each pairing, you have one ingredient bringing the full-bodied punch (shoyu or kim chee) and the other smoothing things out (mayo or creamy dairy). These symbiotic pantry staples (plus a pile of cucumber spears or Fritos) are exactly all you need—when a loved one drops by, or when you’re burrowing into the couch for a movie or the Super Bowl, or when you just need your own moment of “ono” (Hawaiian for delicious).

But in his cookbook Cook Real Hawai‘i, Sheldon—who’s built many a successful restaurant and won hearts on two seasons of Top Chef—deepened the flavors and textures of his family’s go-tos with some cheffy tricks, while keeping them stir-together-in-moments accessible.

Quickfire challenge: Make two genius pupus right out of the pantry. Photo by Rocky Luten. Food Stylist: Ericka Martins. Prop Stylist: Molly Fitzsimons.

To the Shoyu Dip, he added a sweet-salty sesame crunch on top and lemony brightness within. He sprinkled in not just zest but lemon oil, too—one of the secret weapons he brought with him to Top Chef.

"The first time I tasted it, my mind was blown—I was amazed you could add both brightness and richness to a dish at the same time," Sheldon writes in Cook Real Hawai‘i. He also loved that lemon oil left poke with a silky texture, unlike in Mexican ceviche or Tahitian poisson cru, which essentially cook fish in the sharp acidity of lime or lemon juice.

The lemon oil he first encountered poured over tuna tartare at Vino’s restaurant on Maui was made by Agrumato, from olives pressed together with whole lemons. But by gently heating strips of lemon zest in oil and letting them steep, Sheldon’s at-home version captures all of the juicy sunshine of lemons, without the harshness of actual lemon juice.

And to the Kim Chee Dip, he layered in the umami of Parmesan and kochugaru (Korean chile flakes, also spelled “gochugaru”), plus crunchy fried garlic on top. At his restaurants, he deep-fries massive batches of the topping for garlic noodles and mochiko chicken. (And at home, “I just steal from the restaurant.”) But his coauthor, Garrett Snyder, also introduced him to a trick for making fried garlic from scratch at home in precious little time and oil—in the microwave.

“This is the best pantry hack that you can get,” Sheldon told me.

Now you can live like a Simeon—with lemony sunshine and crackly garlic always close at hand, and deliciousness just moments away.

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I'm an ex-economist, lifelong-Californian who moved to New York to work in food media in 2007, before returning to the land of Dutch Crunch bread and tri-tip barbecues in 2020. Dodgy career choices aside, I can't help but apply the rational tendencies of my former life to things like: recipe tweaking, digging up obscure facts about pizza, and deciding how many pastries to put in my purse for "later."

7 Comments

Karen O. February 3, 2023
Cream cheese with home made pepper jelly is a winner in our house
 
Xena F. February 3, 2022
My mama is from Hawaii. The dip we still make till this day is cottage cheese, cream cheese, canned clams, little smoke sauce, scallions, and a little squeeze of lemon. Onolicious!
 
Yorkie February 4, 2023
Can I get this recipe? Thank you !

 
Harvey P. February 2, 2022
How is listing 2 ingredients a recipe? Curious about the lemon olive oil, I didn't see what to do with them. Do I
soak them whole or dice or mince the lemons and then soak them in the oil, or something else?
 
Joemama February 2, 2022
Underneath the recipe name there is a button that says "View Recipe". Click that. It brings you to the recipe card and has the instructions on what to do with the ingredients, including the lemon olive oil.
 
Harvey P. February 3, 2022
Thank you. I found the note about heating lemon zest in the oil. Search as I did yesterday, I didn't find it then.
 
Charlene V. February 2, 2022
These look great, Kristin. Thanks!
My mother used to make "Avocado Dip" in the 60s, not guacamole, but a smoother dip that she served with potato chips or tortilla chips, but I think it goes with anything dippable.
AVOCADO DIP
6 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature
1 ripe avocado
1/2 medium tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
1/2 green onion, minced
Garlic powder to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
Juice of half a lemon
With a hand mixer, blend cream cheese and avocado until smooth. Stir in tomato and green onion. Season to taste with garlic powder, salt and pepper. Stir in lemon juice.

A Japanese friend gave us different and delicious dip recipe. We also serve it over roasted veggies, like carrots, broccoli, or mushrooms.
SESAME MISO DIP
4 Tbsp. Miracle Whip (NOT mayo)
4 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. white miso
2 tsp. grated fresh ginger
1 tsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. creamy peanut butter
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds
Mix all ingredients together by hand with a whisk until smooth. Adjust soy sauce and peanut butter to taste.
Serve with crudites, especially jicama, bell peppers, sugar snap peas.