- Amanda
Sometimes when I learn something new in the kitchen I feel embarrassed that I hadn't figured it out sooner. Cooking asparagus was that way. Sure, I knew how to high-heat roast it, and I loved that technique. But when I wasn't roasting asparagus, I'd slide back to blanching the spears. Then, while working on a story a few years ago, Carlo Mirarchi, the chef at Roberta's, showed me the right way. As he noted, blanching does little but drain asparagus's flavor, and they're no longer so tough that they need blanching anyway. A much better method is to saute them in oil or butter (or some combination thereof). They cook through quickly and retain all their flavor.
That's what I do now. And so should you (when you're not roasting them). To celebrate my asparagus enlightenment, I'd like to share with you two recipes that involve sauteing and not much other work. One calls for pancetta, the other for chiles and lemon -- all of my most reliable friends in the kitchen. Happy spring.
Asparagus with Pancetta
Serves 3 to 4 (add a poached egg and it serves 2 for dinner)
- One 1/4-inch-thick slice pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
- 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more if needed
- 1/3 cup coarse bread crumbs
- 1 pound asparagus, ends trimmed
- Coarse sea salt
- Maldon sea salt, for garnish
See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.
Asparagus with Shallots, Chiles, and Lemon
Serves 3 to 4
- 1 small shallot, thinly sliced
- Coarse salt
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 pound asparagus, ends trimmed
- 1 dried red chile, crushed into tiny bits
- 4 lemon wedges
- Maldon or other flaky sea salt
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amanda
Before starting FOOD52 with Merrill, I was a food writer and editor at the New York Times. I've written several books, including "Cooking for Mr. Latte" and "The Essential New York Times Cookbook." I played myself in "Julie & Julia" -- hope you didn't blink, or you may have missed the scene! I live in Brooklyn with my husband, Tad, and twins, Walker and Addie.
Some past articles from this author you'll love:
Amanda's Beat Up Baking Sheet
Friday Night Dinner Party I
Advice for Future Food Writers
16 Comments on Asparagus Two Ways:
Amanda - I made the Asparagus with Shallots, Chiles and Lemon last night - delish! The one change I made was I grated the zest of the lemon over the plated asparagus before I cut the lemon into wedges. Added a nice brightness to the flavor.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoGreat idea -- and better way to use up all the lemon!
I am salivating at the thought of local asparagus. My new favorite preparation is wrapped in bits of proscuitto and then grilled (sliding 3-4 spears onto a pair of wooden skewers for support). It's a magically disappearing appetizer.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoStill chilly here in NY -- I'll save that one for a few weeks from now.
Who knew?! I always blanch/boil them or roast them too. Just tried this new method for lunch and they were green and super crunchy/nice & tender. I served on top of lavash, with some crumbled feta and a drizzle of really good oil, and pepper. Really satisfying lunch!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoNice menu.
We usually have asparagus growing by now...it's been a long cold season, however, I will have your recipes in mind once we can harvest! Thanks...
Oh gosh, I love asparagus even the after affects aren't enough to deter me.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoHa!
Love both of these. I usually nuke/steam my asparagus (don't cringe.) Comes out crisp-tender. I love your handwriting Amanda!!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoI won't tell anyone....
I just love recipes like these -- simple, with just a few carefully chosen ingredients, yet high impact. Confession: I almost always skip blanching in recipes and add the veggies a couple minutes earlier. I'm fairly sure it hasn't had any catastrophic effects.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoI confess to the same -- have become very anti-blanching.
Yes, it seems to be an extra step and a waste of a perfectly clean pot most of the time.
Thank you! This comes just in time for a trip back home to see my family. My mother has a huge bed of asparagus right now, and it even grows roadside near their farm. We're always looking for new ideas for how to simply prepare it.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoHope you enjoy it. You reminded me of going asparagus "hunting" with my mother and grandmother -- it would grow on the roadside near fields of corn near my grandmother's house in Maryland.
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