- Amanda
About a decade ago, I went to a cooking demonstration at Macy's by Christopher Hirscheimer, who was then a founding editor at Saveur, and who is now the co-founder of the superb Canal House.
Hirscheimer showed the crowd her trick for making it easy to carve roasted chicken -- she simply cut out the chicken's backbone before roasting, then she reshaped the bird and trussed it to hold it together. Spatchcocking is a similar technique except instead of re-shaping the bird, you flatten it, making it possible to grill or saute a bird in one layer. And I'd spatchcocked before. But I'd never thought of Hirscheimer's approach to the classic roast chicken. At that moment, the clouds parted and rays shined down on Hirscheimer. I bowed to the master.
Fast forward to this fall. At a dinner with some fellow food52ers in Boston, our conversation touched on chef Gordon Hammersley's technique of "braise-roasting" poultry -- where he submerges the meat in broth and leaves the skin exposed to the oven heat. And then a few weeks later over Thanksgiving, my deeply food-crazy Twitter stream bubbled over with declarations of dry-brining, deep-frying, braise-roasting, spatchcocking, and all manner of techniques to achieve a moist bird with crisp skin.
I thought it was time to get in the kitchen to try the combo of spatchcocking and braise-roasting. As usual, rather than do any research, I winged it, occasionally calling out to Merrill for advice. Here are the results!
Spatchcocked and Braise-Roasted Chicken
Serves 4
- One 4 to 4 1/2 pound chicken
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 large shallots, sliced
- 4 garlic cloves, lightly smashed (skins left on)
- 2 rosemary sprigs
- 8 sage leaves
- 1/2 cup fino sherry or dry white wine
- About 1 cup chicken broth
- 1 lemon, cut into thin slices (skin left on; seeds discarded)
1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Using poultry shears, cut the backbone out of the chicken. Reserve the backbone. Turn the chicken skin-side-up and press down on the breast bone to flatten the chicken. Generously season the chicken all over.
2. In a casserole pan or other low shallow pan large enough to fit the flattened chicken, melt the butter in the oil over medium high heat. When the foam subsides, add the chicken skin-side-down, and the backbone, and brown well, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove to a plate. Pour off all but 1 1/2 tablespoons fat.
3. Set the pan back on the stove. Add the shallots and garlic, and cook over medium heat until the shallot has softened, about 2 minutes. Add the rosemary, sage and sherry. Increase the heat and boil off nearly all the sherry. Add 1 cup chicken broth and the lemon slices. Gently lower the chicken back into the pan, again skin-side up.
4. If needed, add more broth to come 1/2-inch up the side of the pan. Transfer the pan to the oven, and braise-roast until the chicken is cooked through (an internal temperature of 165 degrees), 30 to 50 minutes.
5. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes -- uncovered, or the skin will soften! Carve the bird. Strain the pan juices and adjust the seasoning. Serve bird and cooked-down broth, and enjoy!
59 Comments on Spatchcocked and Braise-Roasted Chicken:
I made this last night for dinner and it turned out great! I'm glad I read the comments about the lemon pith and the bitterness it can cause in the dish. When I cut my lemon, I noticed the pith was very thilk, at least 1/4 inch or more. In looking at Amanda's picture of her dish, I noticed that her pith was much thinner. I zested my lemon with a Microplane, cut the rest of the pith away and then sliced my lemons. The sauce was perfectly balanced with no bitterness whatsoever. So if you are making this dish, notice how thick your pith is on your lemons and adjust accordingly.
Made this, and likely used too much broth. The meat came out great, but the sauce was a miss. I found the sauce was extremely bitter/off from lemon and potentially something else. Will try again with less broth and just lemon zest only or preserved lemons and a sweeter wine next time.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoA couple of people have this bitterness issue and it must have to do with the lemon pith (perhaps some pith is more bitter than others). Using the zest or preserved lemons is a smart solution!
My husband and I loved this! I tried it with chicken thighs I usually hate to cook (and eat:) and turned terrible into TERRIFIC! I submitted a pic, again, thank you!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoGlad to hear all worked out!
I made this for dinner and LOVED it - it will be my favourite chicken recipe for 2010 - so easy, too. I was stunned by how the herbs & lemon perfumed and flavoured the entire chicken. I still have some thyme and fresh bay in the garden so that will be my next combination.
For years, one of my favourite chicken recipes has been Amanda's Pan Roasted Chicken w/ End of Season Tomatoes.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoGlad it turned out well for you -- and haven't thought about that other chicken recipe since, well, summer!
I made this the past weekend and while I did tear the skin a little it came out ok. It was really dry. Also, the broth that was in the bottom of the pan in the end was SOO bitter from the lemon, I assume. I am going to try it again and see if maybe I can try a different pan and not to cook it as long since there is more cooking surface.
Any thoughts on the bitter pan juices/broth?
If you add a little cream to the pan juices that may help tone down any bitterness and you might think of stirring in a little apple jelly or a touch of maple syrup.
I wonder if your lemon had a rather thick skin resulting in that bitterness.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoI'm wondering the same thing. When I made it, I worried the broth would be bitter (because of the pith being included) but it turned out ok -- maybe the pith on my lemon was thinner. Next time -- if you'll try it again -- maybe just do strips of lemon rind rather than whole slices. Safer.
My chickens 10+ years ago, in my early days of cooking, were spatchcocked (Cook's Illustrated recipe).
Since then I've done it pretty much every which way except rotisserie. In the past year I've actually become "burned out" on chicken, usually disappointed with the new, latest & greatest recipe's failure to deliver crisp skin and moist, flavorful meat. Don't have chicken much anymore.
Until now . . . this recipe has changed my run of bad luck. Gordon H. is a genius. This recipe rocks!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoA culinary recovery -- love it.
I made this last night and it was delicious. The skin wasn't crispy enough but the flavor was great. Spatchcocking was easier than I thought it would be, plus it's fun to say. Thanks for the recipe!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoThanks for giving it a try. Another trick for crisp skin would be to spatchcock the chicken, then leave it uncovered in the fridge overnight before braise-roasting it.
I made this last night and it turned out great! I didn't have sage or rosemary, but I did have a bunch of fresh parsley so I used that along with the lemon, shallots & garlic. The chicken was so moist & juicy - just delicious. I used a 12 inch cast iron skillet and other than it being heavy to handle, it worked well. Thanks Amanda for a great recipe. I will definitely be making this again.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoYou're welcome!
Did it! What a happy result! Used my 12" cast iron. No rosemary in the house - used thyme. Great liquids went well with rice. Thanks, girls!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoDidn't think to serve it with rice -- good idea.
I tried this on Sunday, mostly just because the word "spatchcock" made me LOL. (I'm an idiot.)
It's fantastic. I love trussing and roasting a whole bird in an iron skillet the way Thomas Keller does it, but that never gave me the hit of herbs and aromatics I got from this method. My friends left ZERO leftovers, the bums. But I guess that's a nice compliment. Thanks!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoTrussing -- another great word.
I made this last night. It was my first ever attempt at roast chicken and it came out beautifully! I think I might have added a little too much broth, so at the end, I boiled it down a bit and it had a wonderful rich flavor. I might do without the lemon, but that's just a personal preference. I will definitely make all my roast chicken like this.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoGlad I've made you a convert. :)
This was... wait for it... last night's dinner. I think what we love most about this method is the way it beautifully infuses the meat with the flavors of the aromatics.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoLOL. Nice one.
I have a problem with the skin getting ripped off the chicken when i try to remove it. The skin is nice and seared dark golden brown. I'm using the same Le creuset oval dish as you, but my chicken doesnt look as nice without the skin. Bummer.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoDo you mean when you're turning it? Maybe use a little more butter and oil when browning it (you can always pour some of it off).
Made it last night using the All Clad Stainless Steel French Skillet (my casserole dish was too small and didn't want to make it in the roaster). Loved that it literally went from stove top to oven. Improvised with Shaoxing wine (chinese glutinous rice wine) and gave the chicken a nice rustic flavor (reminded me of coq au vin). Will definitely be making this again and again.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoOoh! Going to try that.
and now it is our turn to bow to you. Brilliant idea, and a nice weeknight shortcut on the fab Hammersley's dish. I will be making this with the kids for dinner this week for sure. - S
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoYou guys inspired it -- thanks. :)
Just to be able to tell people that you spatch-cocked a chicken is reason alone to make this. I'm thinking of my cast-iron 12"er for this. Also, I would cherish the removed back. The back is truly my favorite piece of the bird.
Amanda, is there any advantage to using the gratin dish that you used, as opposed to a heavy French copper gratin pan? I want to make this tomorrow!! Thinking maybe a splash of that Madeira I bought to make Mr. Hirschfeld's gravy for T-Day would be nice in it. Thank you so much. ;o)
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoI think a copper gratin pan would work really well -- and two thumbs up to the addition of Madeira!
Oh, this look so good! I spatchcocked our T-Day turkey, with a lot of great advice and encouragement from the foodpicklers here. I just used regular (but relatively new) kitchen shears and they worked beautifully. I have never thought to get a gratin pan -- I assume yours is enamel-covered cast iron -- that could go on the stove top. Brilliant! Santa is definitely going to hear about this. ;o)
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoYes it's a Le Creuset enamel-covered cast iron. I use it for everything.
This looks so good! Wouldn't this be cute using some little Cornish game hens?
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoAbsolutely. Would also work for duck.
I'm thinking this is our sunday night dinner, along with the potato pancakes I'm testing!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoEnjoy!
This was really delicious and so easy. Perfectly lemony!
Yum! Is this what you ate with the latkes?? Nice!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoYes, a complementary testing day. My kids ate the leftovers for dinner.
I want to do this - OK here is a dumb question - is that dish ceramic? I have a ceramic LeCruset dish that LOOKS like that but I didn't think I could put it over direct flame .. (I guess this is a Magic Pickle question)
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoIt's enameled cast iron.
Like melissav, spatchcocked chicken is my go-to roast chicken. I've done it a zillion ways, but never thought to brown and braise. I'm making this over the weekend. Perfect Sunday dinner for a cold rainy day!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoHope you like it!
Can't wait to try this! What did you end up doing with the backbone that you browned?
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoPicked off the bits of meat and ate them!
What IS it about that word "spatchcocked" that makes me want to laugh and try your recipe at the same time ?!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoThat's part of the reason I did this one -- just so I could write and say spatchcock.
Like melissav, I spatchcock chicken to roast it, too, and I also love the braising idea. I save the backbones in a ziploc bag in the freezer and use them to make stock.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoGood idea!
Brilliant. Spatchcocked chicken is my go-to roasted chicken dish but I never would have thought to braise it after browning the skin. Can't wait to try this.
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year agoGreat!
"winged it" - ha!
Amanda is a co-founder of Food52.
added about 1 year ago:)
Love the pictures -- can't wait to de-backbone a chicken. Do all earthenware casserole dishes work on a stove-top? How does one know if it's stovetop friendly?
Earthenware, no (or at least, not to my knowledge). Enamel-covered cast iron, yes! ;o)
There's lots of flame-proof earthenware and other clay around these days. I highly recommend Paula Wolfert's Clay Pot Cooking, although it would be nice if her primer on what can go on the stove top and what can't was expanded. A lot of earthenware is fine on the stove--but not a Romertof clay baker. Tagines can go on the stove, though not at high heats. Stoneware should never go on the stove top. Flameware, such as the new line by Emile Henry, can withstand very high heat.
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